Chilorios, My Cinco de Mayo Favorite

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Chilorios, My Cinco de Mayo Favorite

By Patricia Jinich

Memories from growing up in Mexico City revolve around one celebration or another and mostly center on the foods that just had to be there. If there was no holiday, anniversary, birthday or special occasion for a formal celebration, then we celebrated the food itself. Just say the magic words and a get together would spring right up.

Nana made tamales? Fiesta!

Mami made mole? Well, what are you waiting for?

Papi brought real quesadillas potosinas? It is Sunday brunch everyone…

However, as much as I can remember, we didn’t celebrate Cinco de Mayo. As kids we reviewed it in passing at school, unless you lived in the state of Puebla, the place where, on a Cinco de Mayo in 1862, a small Mexican militia won an unexpected victory against the large French army. It was a short-lived victory, as the French won right back. But fast-forward almost a couple centuries later: the French and Spaniards are gone, Mexicans proudly celebrate Independence Day every September 16, and for a reason that no Mexican can explain, Cinco de Mayo has become the most celebrated, joyous and colorful holiday for Mexicans living abroad. It even surpasses the noise we make for Independence Day.

But of course! Any cause is worthy of a celebration, especially if it has become the most grandiose occasion to rejoice on Mexican-ness throughout the world. Thus, at home, we celebrate Cinco de Mayo every year, since we moved to the United States more than a dozen years ago.

My food of choice tends to be Chilorio, originally a cowboy dish from the state of Sinaloa, in the North of Mexico. Chilorio has transcended international boundaries and retained its bold personality. It is so tasty and popular, that it is even sold in cans inside and outside of Mexico. But the canned version can’t compare to the home made one, which is very simple to prepare.

Made by cooking meat in orange juice until tender and then finished off in a non-spicy Ancho chile sauce, it screams out Fiesta in every single bite. Not only because of the richness of its colors and flavors, but because of how fun it is to assemble. Just serve it at the table with a side of warm flour tortillas and your guests can roll their own burritas, however skinny or chubby they want them to be. You can also serve some refried beans and slices of ripe avocado or guacamole that can be eaten either inside or on the side of the burritas. At home we tend to go for eating the beans and guacamole on the side, but its up to you!

Say the word Chilorio and I can hear my monsters start to shout out: “Mami made Chilorio, come on over!” Roll ‘em up boys…

Chilorio

Serves 8

Ingredients:

3 pounds boneless pork (butt, shoulder or loin with some fat on!) cut into 2” chunks, or substitute for chicken)
1¼ cup fresh orange juice
1¼ cup water
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
5 Ancho chiles (about 55 grams), tops and seeds removed
1½ cup of the Chile soaking liquid (see below)
½ cup white onion, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1/3 cup fresh parsley leaves
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper, or to taste
2/3 cup cider vinegar or distilled white vinegar
3 tablespoons corn oil
¼ teaspoon kosher or sea salt, or more to taste
Flour tortillas, warmed, optional

Directions:

Place rinsed meat chunks in an extended heavy pot. Barely cover with the orange juice and water, add a teaspoon of salt and set over high heat. Once it comes to a boil bring the heat down to medium and let it simmer for about 40 to 45 minutes, or until most liquid has cooked off and the meat is thoroughly cooked and has rendered most of its fat.
Meanwhile, remove stems from chiles, make a slit down their sides and remove their seeds and veins. Place them in a bowl, cover them with boiling hot water and let them sit and rehydrate for about 15 minutes. Place chiles and 1½ cup of their soaking liquid in the blender along with the onion, garlic, parsley, oregano, cumin, black pepper, vinegar, and puree until smooth.

Once the meat is ready, place it in a bowl along with any remaining cooking broth. Once it is cool enough to handle, shred it with your hands or using two forks.

In the same pot, heat corn oil over medium heat. Pour in the chile sauce and let it season and simmer 4 to 5 minutes. Toss in the shredded meat along with any of its remaining cooking broth. Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon salt and let it cook, stirring often, until the meat has absorbed most of the chile sauce, which will have thickened, seasoned and changed color to a much darker tone. It will take around 20 minutes. Salt to taste.

Serve with warmed flour tortillas on the side. If you wish, spoon chilorio on tortillas and roll them into burritas. They are wonderful with refried beans and avocado or guacamole on the side as well.

Patricia Jinich was born and raised in Mexico City. Pati is a cooking instructor, food writer and official Chef of the Mexican Cultural Institute in Washington D.C. Previously a political analyst and obsessively thinking about food rather than politics, she left her job to pursue her overarching passion: Mexican cuisine. She dedicates her time (except when she is with her three boys, sometimes not cooking) to research, cook, teach and write about it. Visit Patricia at patismexicantable.com.

Reader Comments:

I made a (canned) chilorio quiche with pasilla sauce for dinner on Saturday and thought “Too bad I don’t have a good recipe to make my own” THANKS can’t wait to try it.

By Renata on October 11, 2010

I love mexican food! I can’t wait to make it.

By Patricia Najera on May 04, 2010

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Chilorios, My Cinco de Mayo Favorite